Saturday, February 7, 2009

Italian Cuisine II

Sicily is said to have been the birthplace for the Italian food as we know it today. It had got culinary customs from Rome and Athens and amalgamated these to develop what some consider the first real Italian cuisine. With the Arab invasion in the 9th century came almonds, spinach and rice and debatably spaghetti. Spaghetti possibly made its first appearance during the 12th century AD when the Norman king made a survey of Sicily noting that people were making long strings made from flour and water called atriya, eventually called trii, a synonym used for spaghetti in southern Italy. These Normans were also responsible for the introduction of salt cod (baccalĂ ), casseroling and stockfish which are very popular even today. Germanic and Roman culture began to influence the northern regions of future Italy but the southern part kept reflecting the influences of Arab culture.
Through the 13th,14th and 15th centuries we find Italian cuisine slowly evolving dishes which increasingly look like modern Italian food. Fresh ingredients and lightness of seasonings which are the hallmarks of great Italian cuisine are slowly finding increasing favour among connoisseurs. But it is in the resurgent Italy of 16th century we find Italian cuisine coming into its maturity. The courts of Rome, Venice, Florence and Ferrara were part of the conception of fine cooking in Italy. Eastern spices and sugar once again find relevance in these times.
In 1570 Opera written by Bartolomeo Scappi personal chef to Pope Pius V we find the most complete detail of Italian cooking up to the period. The work had over 1,000 recipes, giving information on banquets including displays and menus as well as illustrations of kitchen and table utensils. This volume is unique in its emphasis on domestic animals and courtyard birds which was more in line with the "modest household". Apart from recipes showing how to clean and use lesser cuts of meats including tongue, head, and shoulder; it had chapters on preparations for fish including broiling, grilled, poaching, or fried after being marinated. There were also recipes for items from the New World.

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